Pothole Revenge, Camel’s Milk Ice Cream, and “Medicine” Drinks

In true safari fashion, the wilderness had one final trick up its sleeve for our grand exit. The tiny airstrip conveniently located right next to our camp? Closed for maintenance, of course! And naturally, it wasn’t scheduled to reopen until the day after we left.

*The cute little dik-dik’s are so cautious. Always on the lookout for predators although there are none on this island. If he only knew how safe he is.*

So, instead of a breezy fifteen-thirty minute drive to the bush plane, we were treated to one last 2-hour grand tour of the Mara’s finest features: relentless potholes, spine-rattling washboard roads, and those famous washed-out bridges. Oh boy!

*Our final ride in a bush plane. That guy in the red is a baggage handler.*

Once we rattled our way to the alternate airstrip, it was time to say a tearful goodbye to our incredible drivers, Robert and David. They were absolute legends—so knowledgeable, so much fun, and officially part of our extended family.

*What we had to get through to get to the bush airport.*

They loaded us onto our final Kenya Airways bush plane. I’m usually not the biggest fan of these glorified flying canoes, but I have to admit, the pilots were so smooth they could’ve landed those planes with their eyes closed. (Though for the record, I was very glad they kept them wide open!).

*Our favorite team. Paul, David and Robert.*

Onward to Lake Naivasha

After touching down in Nairobi, we bid farewell to Paul and Sue, piled into a van, and embarked on another 2-hour drive out to Lake Naivasha. This road was much smoother, but after already enduring two hours of off-road massage therapy in the jeep, we were all thoroughly exhausted.

*After arriving in Nairobi we had to wait outside for our luggage. I’m pretty sure the larger planes for domestic travel were a little better. It was pretty organized.*

We checked into the Enashipai Resort & Spa, grabbed a quick buffet lunch, and headed to our rooms. On the way, the local monkey population was out in full force. At one point, a woman went running past us, screaming bloody murder because a monkey was “chasing” her. In reality, the poor little guy was just sitting on a rock, staring at her like she was the crazy one!

*Vervet monkey. Hard to get close to these guys. They are fast and sneaky*!

We spent the afternoon tackling the unglamorous part of travel: repacking. Bush planes have strict duffel-bag weight limits, so we had left our larger hardshell suitcase behind with Paul at the start of the safari. Reuniting our gear felt like Christmas!

Flooded Islands and Camel’s Milk Treats

The next morning, we headed down to the water and boarded an 8-to-10-passenger motorized canoe to explore Lake Naivasha.

*Our transportation to and from the island.*

Sitting at the highest elevation of the Kenyan Rift Valley, Lake Naivasha is a massive freshwater lake famous for its booming hippopotamus population and over 400 species of birds. Back in 2019, Kenya experienced its third-highest annual rainfall in recorded history, causing the lake’s water levels to rise so dramatically that it completely submerged surrounding farmlands and created brand-new islands!

*A hotel being built on more high ground.*

Our boat glided past an unbelievable array of birdlife before docking at Crescent Island, home to the Muhu Kangari Game Sanctuary.

*Riding through here reminded me of the cypress trees in East Texas’ caddo lake.*

The Muhu Kangari Sanctuary:

When the 2019 floods swallowed up the surrounding shorelines, dozens of land animals found themselves stranded on high ground. Rather than relocating them, the area was turned into a safe-haven sanctuary where giraffes, wildebeest, and zebras now roam freely with zero natural predators—making it one of the few places in Kenya where you can do a peaceful, face-to-face walking safari!

After logging our steps on the island, we treated ourselves to the local delicacy: Camel’s Milk Ice Cream! Chuck and I actually enjoyed it—it tasted like a slightly flat vanilla—though the rest of our group looked at us like we were eating wet cement.

*I thought this was a cute entrance to the island.*

Back at the resort, we rewarded our sore muscles with a 2-hour full-body massage. After eight days of jeep-bouncing, it was nothing short of heavenly.

The following morning, we made the final trek back to Nairobi to meet Paul and Sue for a celebratory farewell lunch at the world-famous Carnivore restaurant.

They brought out a medieval feast of roasted meats—everything from ostrich and pork to crocodile, beef, and even ox testicles! Naturally, we washed it all down with Kenya’s signature cocktail: the Dawa.

*This was the closest we could get to the animals while walking. I thought that was interesting since we would just drive the wheel right up next to the Lions in Masai Mara*

Made with vodka, fresh lime, sugar, and honey (mixed right in front of you with a bamboo “dawa stick”), it was delicious, though one was definitely our limit. Fun fact: “Dawa” actually means “Medicine” in Swahili… and after one sip, you completely understand why!

After lunch, it was time for the final curtain call. The rest of our group checked into a day-use hotel to rest before their late-night flights, while Chuck and I officially headed to the airport to begin our long 28 hour journey home.

Looking back, this Kenyan safari was absolute perfection. Even with the “bumps” (or rather, crater-sized potholes) along the way, the memories we made are priceless. The animals were breathtaking, the scenery was wild, and the friendships we built turned into family. Our hearts will forever belong to Africa.

*The cutest little waterbuck. I didn’t see mom around but its nice to know there are reproducing on this tiny island.*

A massive thank you to Paul and the entire TemboWild team for treating us like absolute royalty and sharing their beautiful home with us. It was AMAZING!

Below are the amazing birds found on the lake and islands.