The “Bush Uber,” Outdoor Showers, and the Elusive Spotted Phantom

Our TemboWild jeep muddling through the rough terrain. Our jeep got stuck momentarily but with persistence, our driver David did and amazing job in getting us through it.

Guess what time we got up today? Did you guess 5:30 AM? WRONG! We actually got to sleep in for a whole couple of hours! It is unbelievable what a little extra sleep can do for your mind, body, and soul. Happy Dance!

Refreshed and ready, we transferred to our third camp of the trip: Elewana Sand River Maasai Mara. We will be here three glorious nights. Just one more camp to go!

Here we go again!

This encampment was hands-down the most stunning of the three, with just one tiny detail… the shower is located outside. Yes, you read that correctly. Outside. In the middle of the African wilderness. Who in their right mind takes a shower outdoors with wild lions roaming around? Chuck, apparently! It didn’t bother him one bit. I, on the other hand, am not crazy, so I stayed safely indoors and took a nice, cozy bubble bath.

The Famous Sand River

Our camp sits right on the bank of the Sand River, a famous geographic landmark that acts as a natural border between Tanzania’s Serengeti and Kenya’s Maasai Mara. During the Great Migration, thousands of wildebeest and zebras gather at its banks, building up the courage to plunge into the water and cross over. Crossing my fingers we catch a front-row seat to the action!

The Hyenna looks like shes smiling.

Getting here was an adventure in itself. Our short “two-hour” flight involved stopping at four different airstrips—two of the legs were literally five minutes long! As soon as the wheels left the ground, we’d drop right back down to let off a passenger. We officially decided that domestic African bush planes are just the Ubers of the wilderness.

The elusive leopard trying to stay elusive!

Once we landed, we were overjoyed to be greeted by Robert and David, our guides from day 1 and 2. We loved the two guides in Loisaba but these two have our hearts from the ultimate world cruise so it was so exciting to have them back in charge.

The trek to camp felt like a middleweight boxing match. The roads were washed out, bumpy, and full of potholes. To make matters worse, our sweet guide, Robert, got a little turned around trying to bypass the absolute worst spots and we were a little late to our destination. I applaud him for even knowing where he was going. There are no road signs out here.

The closest we will probably get to a migration. It was pretty cool watching them follow as the leader decided when it was time to hit the road!

On the bright side? Between all the jostling and bouncing in the jeep, my Apple watch credited me with climbing 57 flights of stairs without me ever standing up! I’m calling that a major fitness win. WOO HOO!

After settling into our gorgeous camp, we headed out for an evening game drive—and hit the absolute jackpot.

Almost immediately, we spotted the holy grail of safari sightings: the elusive leopard!

With this sighting, we officially completed our Big 5 (Lion, Elephant, Rhino, Cape Buffalo, and Leopard)! He was stretched out, fast asleep way up in the branches of a tree. Sure, we didn’t get a perfect headshot photo, but we saw him! We lingered as long as we could, hoping he’d climb down, but he was far too comfortable.

Our friend Gary jokingly accused Paul (our TemboWild host) of sneaking into the bush earlier that afternoon just to drape a plush leopard rug over a tree branch. But I swear I saw the tail twitch! The spotted phantom is real, and he was breathtaking.

All joking aside Leopards are the true ghosts of the Maasai Mara—master camouflage artists who spend their days draped lazily across high tree branches or hidden deep within the riverine forests. Despite being solitary and fiercely territorial, the Mara’s rich predator environment makes it one of the best places in Africa to spot these stealthy hunters. Watching one effortlessly haul its heavy prey high up into a tree to keep it away from hungry hyenas and lions is a testament to their incredible strength and stealth!

Loved our tents on all trips but it was very cold at night and there is no A/C or Heat. We slept with these hot water bottles every night. They were amazing! If I didnt live in Florida where it was 100 degrees year round, I would have one!

Fun Fact: The Majestic Maasai Mara

Spanning roughly 580 square miles (1,500 square kilometers) in southwestern Kenya, the Maasai Mara National Reserve is world-renowned for its sweeping savannahs, iconic flat-topped acacia trees, and unmatched density of wildlife. It serves as the northern star of the Greater Serengeti ecosystem, hosting the legendary Great Migration where millions of wildebeest, zebras, and gazelles thunder across the plains. Alongside these massive herds, the Mara boasts one of the highest concentrations of predators on Earth—including thriving populations of lions, cheetahs, leopards, and hyenas—making every single drive feel like stepping right into the middle of a live National Geographic documentary!

We wrapped up the afternoon in a wide-open valley of the Maasai Mara, sipping drinks while the sun dipped below the horizon behind a herd of quietly grazing elephants. Absolutely surreal.

Tonight is an early night because tomorrow’s alarm is set for… 3:45 AM. Honestly, why even go to bed? Chuck and I are setting at least three separate alarms to make sure we don’t sleep through it. But it’s all for a good reason: tomorrow morning, we are taking a hot air balloon ride over the vast plains of the Maasai Mara at sunrise! I’m equal parts terrified and thrilled.

Isnt this beautiful? Those are elephants grazing.

We must have guides back to our rooms after 6:30 pm. Tomorrow, I’ll explain why.

Goodnight, and may God bless you always!

Chuck & Lea Ann


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