Chuck and my brother Pee Wee (Lee Roy Jr) both served in Vietnam. I don’t have a whole lot of specifics for either one but Chuck has been wanting to go back and see it since the war ended. He said he wants to see it when no ones shooting at him! His time there was in 1968 and basically repaired and/or built and rebuilt structures such as a hospital and some bridges. His service was spent in Hoi An. My brother was excited about my trip to Vietnam. I was able to tell him about our trip after we booked it. I’m sad that he won’t be able to hear my stories. He and his wife both died of cancer in 2020.
Our world cruise docked in two Vietnam ports, Nha Trang and Ho Chi Minh. Today we are in Nha Trang close to two beautiful beaches but the heat was so brutal, I’m glad the beach wasn’t in our list to visit!
We were required to tender to shore, meaning we had a small 15 minute boat ride to land. With temperatures expected to soar to the mid 90’s, I was a little hesitant about our day. It was miserably hot and the humidity was almost unbearable. So much so that one lady in my group passed out from the heat. Thankfully, she is fine but a scary moment for her and her husband for sure!
Other than the heat, we had a beautiful day to explore this city. Our driver and his nice air conditioned van ventured beyond the shoreline and into the heart of the city, uncovering a fascinating blend of ancient Cham culture, Buddhist serenity, and vibrant local life.
Our first stop, Christ the King Cathedral also called Nha Trang Cathedral, is the mother church of the Catholic Diocese of Nha Trang.
The parish was founded in 1886 by French missionaries. The present church was built in the Gothic Revival style in 1928 as a parish church. It was a beautiful church from the exterior. Today is Sunday so no visits to the inside.
A short ride away, we visited Long Son Pagoda, a magnificent Buddhist temple complex built in the late 19th century. A few of us walked the white stone steps, first passing the large sleeping white Buddha lying in his final resting place and then to the top overlooking the city, was a huge white sitting Buddha. The ornate altars and colorful statues offered a moment of quiet among the bustling city.
Our climb to the top was both strenuous and difficult due to the heat. We made the 193 steps but it wasn’t easy.
While at the pagoda we ventured inside for a quick look around. Wasn’t surprised that it’s the same as all others we’ve seen, much like walking through the impressive basilicas in Europe. They are beautiful but all look very similar.
Time for lunch! We had some nice Vietnamese cuisine at a restaurant nearby. We shared a plate of shrimp fried rice cooked in some delicious spices that was far different than chinese style stir fry from the US, but nowhere near the amazing food in China. My desire for Chinese food has been forever changed. If it’s not true authentic Chinese, it’s not for me.
After a nice lunch we drove over to Po Nagar, a complex of ancient Cham towers dating back to the 7th-12th centuries. The Cham people, a seafaring civilization, once ruled this region. These impressive brick towers, intricately carved with gods and dancers, served as religious centers. Climbing to the remaining central tower offered panoramic views of the city and a glimpse into the region’s past.
The view was extraordinary. The vast city skyline rising above the small blue Sampan fishing boats scattered among the Cai river while the Tran Phi bridge stood tall in the background.
Seeking some shade we made our way to Hon Chong Promontory. Here, massive boulders rise from the sea, sculpted by nature’s hand over a thousand years. But one rock, in particular, draws curious visitors. Hon Chong, meaning “husband rock,” features a giant handprint etched into its side.
Science tells us this is likely the result of erosion, but Nha Trang’s rich folklore offers more colorful explanations. There are many tales told but one legend repeated most often explains both the handprint and Hon Chong’s name. It speaks of a loving couple caught in a storm. As their boat was swept away, the husband clung desperately to the rock, leaving his handprint behind. Though they perished, their love story lives on – Hon Chong stands opposite Hon Vo, “wife rock,” forever bound across the waves.
Whether formed by natural forces or mythical beings, the handprint on Hon Chong adds a layer of mystery.s
No Vietnamese adventure is complete without a visit to a local market, and Nha Trang’s Dam Market did not disappoint. Claimed to be the oldest and most prestigious trading center in the city, Dam Market is another shopping paradise. We weaved through a maze of stalls overflowing with colorful silk garments, handcrafted souvenirs, and an array of exotic fruits. We’ve been warned not to eat any for fear of an unwanted bug that may not cooperate with our systems. We also ensure our drinking water was bottled and ice was purified. The aroma of freshly brewed coffee and coffee beans were for sale in many areas. It’s a hot commodity here. I picked up a few tops and pants. 2 sets for $20 USD! Chuck found a Hoi An t-shirt.
We had a day filled with a rich history of Vietnam. The most prominent question was what was Nha Trang’s role in the war? It played a significant but lesser-known role during the Vietnam War. While it wasn’t a major battleground, its strategic location and infrastructure made it crucial for the US and South Vietnamese forces. Here’s a peek into Nha Trang’s wartime history.
Nha Trang housed Nha Trang Air Base, a vital facility for the US Air Force (USAF) and the Republic of Vietnam Air Force (RVNAF). The base provided a runway for fighter jets, bombers, and transport aircraft. It also served as a training center for RVNAF pilots.
In 1962, the US Army established the 8th Field Hospital in Nha Trang. Equipped with helicopter ambulances (the first in Vietnam!), this became the primary medical facility for treating US military personnel until 1963.
With its beautiful beaches, Nha Trang became a popular R&R (Rest and Recuperation) destination for soldiers on leave. This offered a temporary escape from the harsh realities of the war.
As the war progressed, the US involvement in Vietnam began to wind down. By 1969, most USAF units had relocated or deactivated, with the base transitioning to RVNAF control in 1970. This marked a shift in the power dynamics of the war.
While the city itself wasn’t ravaged by battles, it played a crucial behind-the-scenes role in the Vietnam War.
Aside from the heat, we enjoyed our first stop in Vietnam and look forward to Ho Chi Minh.
May God bless you always!
Chuck and Lea Ann
WorldTravelReynolds 