Toasting Shackleton in South Georgia

Shakleton’s grave. Probably has more whisky poured on it than rain!

Well, friends, today we pulled into Grytviken—the old whaling capital turned peaceful outpost and, most importantly, the final resting place of Sir Ernest Shackleton, the man they simply called “The Boss.”

Other sailers that lost their lives on this island

Standing at his granite headstone overlooking the cove felt like stepping into history. Our whole group gathered, raised glasses of seriously strong whiskey, shouted “To the Boss!” in unison, poured a respectful splash on the grave (tradition!), and then—because nobody’s wasting good whiskey down here—we drank the rest. It burned all the way down, but in the best possible way. A moving moment, for sure.

Sucha beautiful backdrop and a lazy weiner seal

A Little About Shackleton’s Famous Journey Back in 1914, Shackleton set out to be the first to cross Antarctica on foot. Great plan… until his ship, Endurance, got locked in pack ice and slowly crushed like a tin can.

The crew camped on drifting ice for months, then escaped in lifeboats to desolate Elephant Island. Shackleton and five brave souls then climbed into the 22-foot James Caird and sailed 800 miles across the wildest ocean on Earth to reach South Georgia.

seals everywhere look like rock mounds

They survived storms that would make a sailor cry, hauled the boat ashore, crossed uncharted mountains in boots held together with screws and hope, and finally stumbled into a whaling station. Shackleton then turned right around and rescued every last man. Not a single life lost. Folks, that’s not just leadership—that’s a master class in stubborn grit and the world’s best Plan B.

The wildlife put on quite a show too. Fur seals have been busy—new pups everywhere, tiny black fluffballs so curious they waddle right up to you like you’re their long-lost mama. The big beachmaster bulls were roaring and chest-puffing, practicing what I can only call premature masculinity. A few even charged the group for dramatic effect (thank goodness for guides who know how to clap loud and stand tall!).

The Petrel, a whale catcher vessel beached here in 1964/65 when the whaling industry closed
Abandoned whaling station

The weather, however, decided to be dramatically Antarctic: fog, steady rain, and a wind that turned 28°F into “why did I leave the house?” My gloves were soaked in minutes. I do own waterproof ones, but they’re so bulky I can’t work the camera buttons—so we just suck it up, freeze the fingers, and stuff hand warmers in there like little miracles. Big camera stayed on the ship today; iPhone earned its keep.

Called weiners, these seals are just teenagers

Chuck and I took one look at the afternoon zodiac cruise (more rain, more bouncing) and said, “Hard pass, thank you.” Best decision ever. Instead, the satellite gods smiled on us, and I got a clear video call with my sweet 10-year-old granddaughter back home. Her big smile and all her stories melted every bit of chill right out of me. Nothing beats that.

Tonight we’re dining with some of the ship’s executives—feeling a little fancy out here in the middle of nowhere.

Incredible view leaving Grytviken

South Georgia, you keep outdoing yourself. Can’t wait to see what tomorrow brings!

May God bless you all! Chuck & Lea Ann


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