Today was an experience, to say the least and you may have difficulty reading this post. Its not for the faint of heart. I really had a hard time writing it. Trying to explain someone else’s suffering that is beyond imaginable, is very difficult to do when I wasn’t there to see it firsthand and very thankful I wasn’t. It was a very solemn experience walking through the castles and hearing the stories that weighed on me heavily.
Our day started with a marathon drive to Elmina, a coastal town known for its haunting history, The drive felt endless, the highway a dusty and very bumpy stretch that felt like it went on forever! Finally, we arrived at Elmina Castle, an imposing structure that has a dark past thats beyond my wildest nightmares! Built by the Portuguese in the 15th century, Elmina served as a major hub in the transatlantic slave trade. Think of it alongside Luanda, Angola, another notorious port in this horrific trade. This wasn’t just a Ghanaian story, it was a stain across West Africa. And, we have one more stop to add to this story coming up in Senegal.
Elmina Castle, also known as St. George’s Castle, holds the dubious honor of being the oldest European building in Sub-Saharan Africa, erected by the Portuguese in 1482. Initially intended for trade in gold and other resources, it quickly became a central point in the slave trade. The Portuguese constructed elaborate dungeons, dark and airless chambers designed to hold hundreds of captives at a time. These weren’t just generic rooms; horrific stories like leg irons cemented into the walls spoke volumes about the intended purpose. Elmina even had a separate dungeon for women who became pregnant by their captors, a horrifying reminder of the additional exploitation they faced. A special staircase added for those that were chosen to visit the head captors for sex in return for special treatment.
The Portuguese held onto Elmina for over a century before the Dutch seized control in 1637. The Dutch further expanded the slave trade, constructing the “Slave Courtyard” – a large open space where captives were sorted, branded, and sold. The efficiency with which they processed human beings is chilling. Elmina remained under Dutch control until the late 19th century when it was finally ceded to the British.
Enslaved Africans, captured from various regions, were crammed into foul-smelling and cramped, tiny dungeons. We had to stoop down to enter these rooms. The “Door of No Return”, the final point of departure before the horrors of the Middle Passage, was another chilling moment. Walking through those very same doorways, it was impossible to understand what the Africans went through. But, if I was subjected to the same treatment, I can only imagine the mental and physical pain endured.
Leaving the weight of history behind, we explored Takoradi’s very active harbor. The air buzzed with activity and smelled like pungent, rank, fishy waste as fishermen unloading their daily catches as their battered boats bobbed in the water. The smell was horrible. And the women! Everywhere, Ghanaian women balanced enormous loads on their heads. Some up to six times their weight! Apparently, it’s not just about strength; it’s a cultural tradition and a way to protect goods from the sometimes-terrible roads (which, let me tell you, we experienced firsthand on our journey!). We saw women with a full 2 dozen eggs being balanced while other women had clothes, shoes and would you believe and ice cream bucket, with ice cream cones! Unbelievable to say the least!
Ready to leave this oh so smelly place, we moved on to Cape Coast Castle, another imposing European fortress. Like Elmina, Cape Coast’s story is one of stolen lives and unimaginable suffering. Built by the Swedes in the 17th century, the castle quickly transformed from a trading post for gold and timber to a brutal holding center in the transatlantic slave trade. This castle had more fire power to protect the Elmina castle from enemies.
The Swedes, Danes, Dutch, and finally the British all vied for control of Cape Coast, leaving their mark on its dark legacy. Unlike the sanitized image of European trade outposts, Cape Coast stands as a stark monument to human cruelty.
The castle’s oppressive dungeons were designed to break the spirits of those held captive. The “Sala de Mina,” a Portuguese term meaning “room of the mine,” was a horrific example. After being there, I would change that to “room of the broken mind”. This cramped, airless chamber became a temporary home for hundreds of men, forced together in the darkness for days before their fate as human cargo was sealed. Conditions were further worsened by shallow trenches dug in the floor for human waste. The sheer number of men vastly exceeded the capacity of these trenches, leaving the floor slick with urine that could rise almost knee-deep, measured by the markings on the wall of the dungeon. A particularly haunting section of the dungeon is blocked off, preserving a grim testament to the suffering – a solid block of human feces, a chilling reminder of the inhumane conditions endured.
This castle was similar to Elaina in the rooms and the “Door of No Return,” was here as well.
These powerful details paint a horrific picture of the human cost of the slave trade. Cape Coast Castle serves not only as a historical landmark, but also as a solemn reminder of a horrific chapter in human history. How can one human be so cruel to another? I’ll never be able to comprehend nor understand it.
The two hour drive back to our hotel felt even longer, the effects of the bumpy roads finally taking their toll. Today was a day that will stay with me for a long time, a reminder of the darkest chapters in human history and the enduring spirit of a remarkable people to are rising above their dark past and living.
May God bless them and keep them all!
Chuck and Lea Ann
WorldTravelReynolds 