Swakopmund, Namibia, a country on the African southwest coast (we docked in Walvis Bay, has a population of 44,000 people so its a small town within the state of 2.5 million members. Swakopmund is a name that conjures images of endless sand dunes and a cool ocean breeze – and today, it lived up to every expectation and then some!
Our day started with a surprising (and delightful) treat: a flock of greater and lesser flamingos wading in a lagoon. Their vibrant pink feathers against the blue sky were a sight we have seen before although these flamingos were different. The lesser ones, I noticed, sported a bit more black on their wings compared to their greater flamingo neighbors. In flight, they were very unique.
Swakopmund’s history is as fascinating as its landscape. Founded by German colonists in 1892, the town boasts a unique architectural blend of German and Namibian styles. This fusion is particularly evident in the Democratic Resettlement Community (DRC), an interesting neighborhood that holds a significant place in Namibia’s recent history.
Established in 2001, the DRC was envisioned as a temporary solution. Namibia, just gaining its independence, grappled with a housing crisis. The DRC was built to provide temporary housing for those awaiting government-subsidized homes. Initially constructed from salvaged materials like corrugated metal, wood, canvas, and plastic, the DRC quickly became a permanent fixture in Swakopmund.
Life in the DRC is a challenge for the 20,000 residents. (Thats 1/2 of the whole population of Swakopmund.) Many residents lack basic amenities like electricity, running water, and proper sanitation. Most homes do not have a toilet and we only saw a few port-a-potties nearby. Yet, the community pulsates with life. Small businesses have sprung up, catering to the needs of the residents. We saw daycare centers as well as a youth development center that provides opportunities for the younger generation and a clinic offering much-needed healthcare services. As we understand it, this is still a stepping stone to government housing so although the scenery doesn’t change, the people do.
One of the most striking things I saw in the DRC was a house built entirely out of bottles! This resourceful construction spoke volumes about the creativity and resilience of the community. The DRC’s story is a complex one and it appears this community is here to stay. In talking to some families, one of the teenagers was working towards a sanitation degree so we could do more.
No visit to Swakopmund is complete without conquering the iconic Dune 7, and I “almost” conquered it. I didnt make it to the top was was very close. My lungs just couldn’t take it so I happily cheered on all my friends move to the top! Towering at 1,256 feet, Dune 7 is the highest dune in Namibia, and the seventh one you encounter after crossing the Tsauchab River. The climb, though challenging, was an exhilarating experience. With each step, the vast expanse of the Namibia Desert just sunk beneath my feet. The view was amazing though. I had sand from head to toe but it was worth it! The memories it brought back of my childhood climbing those sand dunes in West Texas brought a smile to my face. I’m sure the dunes were much smaller but as a 3 foot tall child, I’m sure they were as large as Dune 7.
Even though I didnt make it to the top, the descent was a whole lot of fun! I opted to run down the face of the dune, the sand soft and forgiving beneath my feet. The laughter of other adventurers echoed in the air as we all reveled in the pure joy of this desert playground.
Lunch (if you can call it that) was a true Namibian experience. Fried caterpillars, a local delicacy that, according to others in our group that ate it, werent very tasty. Why am I not surprised? I tried to get Chuck to take a bite but he wasnt having anything to do with it. The other less exotic delicacies were spinach, beef and porridge that was kind of like a piece of uncooked bread and smashed beans that tasted like hummus. I ate a little of the porridge and beans and Chuck tasted the meat. He said it was tough. The guide stated this was due to the meat and fish being dried before cooking.
Before heading out, we were provided some local entertainment. We we given some soulful harmonies of an acapella group of 5 boys, their voices weaving a tapestry of Namibian music. We really enjoyed their songs.
Ready to explore some more, we ventured into the heart of Swakopmund. The bustling open market was a feast for the senses. Local vendors displayed an array of colorful crafts, fresh produce and meat being cooked for us with some of the local bread, all on an open fire. One stall, in particular, caught our eye so we wandered over. the owner was grilling succulent meat over an open fire, and smelled pretty good until she told us what it was. LIVER! It honestly looked like intestines.
We politely declined however she did have some been she cooked up and showed us how to eat it. Which I gladly let Chuck take my turn! You wash your hands in some dirty water, dry it with a dirty towel and pick up them, dip it in some spices and either eat it or put it between the sweet fried bread rolls and then eat it. All that partook, enjoyed it. They just closed their eyes and minds to the sanitary conditions including the fact several cow heads were laying on the table nearby.
In the afternoon, we made my way to the iconic Swakopmund lighthouse, a majestic sentinel standing guard over the town. It was a beautiful silhouette over the city.
Leaving Swakopmund, we had one major stop and that was in Mondesa, a township bordering Swakopmund. There, we spent some heartwarming time at a local orphanage, distributing gifts and sharing smiles with the children. Their bright eyes and infectious laughter were a heartwarming reminder of the simple joys in life. We prepared months ahead of time once we found out we were being redirected to Africa. The orphanage, Tears of Hope, is run by Naftalina Mauha. Her home for orphaned and abandoned children many as a result of HIV/Aids parents, in which she started with a young baby in 1975 at the young age of 17. She raises the children as her own, they call her Mom! In 2007 the non-profit organization Tears of Hope was developed. While there, we paid off her outstanding pharmacy bills and prepaid for 3 months more of medicine for a few of the children. We fixed a swing set for the children and will set up a fund at a food bank as well. But, the most important thing that did that day was spend time playing and talking to the children. The ages were as young as 5 months to college. The college children/adults grew up in the orphanage and are there to help “mama”. I wanted to take them home! After a tearful goodbye, we made our way back to the ship. Our 8 friends all joined in on conversations of the day but mostly about how can we help this orphanage family more. They really touched our hearts.
Of all our travels, even the safari included, this will be the one we will remember the most.
May God bless you always!
Chuck & Lea Ann
WorldTravelReynolds 